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When compiling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might expect well-known award-winning venues. However, nestled near the top among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu located in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

The little Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. The honour has made the owners totally astonished.

“I’m completely shocked,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their modest place earning such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender quality.

It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic honour.